INGREDIENT INFORMATION

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SKIN CARE AND BEAUTY GLOSSARY

Acacia Tree - See Collagen (C)

Acetic Acid: Sometimes used as a caustic or astringent. A natural, organic acid.

Acetamide MEA: 
Used in lipsticks and cream blusher to retain moisture. Causes adverse reactions, and is toxic, carcinogenic, and mutagenic.

Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol: Acetylated lanolin is an agent that forms a protective coating on the skin's surface and helps prevent moisture loss. It is a hypoallergenic agent that smoothes and softens the skin.

Acetone: Acetone is a strong solvent that is used in nail polish removers. It is appropriate for natural nails only. It can be found in some astringents/toners/fresheners.

Acid: Acids are used in skin care products to stabilize formulas that have an unwanted alkaline level. Its purpose is to change the pH level of a substance.

Acid Balance: The acid balance refers to natural pH level of the skin's moisture.

Acidic Soil: A pH content of less than 6.5.

Acid Mantle: A protective oily layer on the skin's surface which functions as a protectorate against environmental impurities and helps regulate moisture loss and water retention.

Acidophilus: Helps prevent fungus, acne, and bad breathe.

Acid Perm: An acid perm produces permanent hair waves with curls that are actually softer than an alkaline perm. It also has a pH from 6.5 to 8.0.

Acini: The secretor portion of the sebaceous gland.

Acne: An inflammatory skin disease that effects the tiny pores that cover the face, arms, back and chest as well as the oil glands attached to them. Acne is a chronic disorder characterized by excess production of oil from sebaceous glands causing the hair follicles generally on the face, chest and back to become plugged. Pimples, papules, pustules and comedone, (black heads and white heads) cysts and infected abscesses can be treated in acne.

Acne Conglobata: This is the severest form of acne, and is composed of painful, large inflammatory nodules and cysts. It often leads to sever scarring, and is usually associated with male gender.

Acne excoriee des jeunes filles: Scratch marks that look like acne but are due to friction and irritation caused by wearing helmets, shoulder pads, orthopedic casts, bra straps and sweaters.

Acne Kelidalis Nuchae: This acne is often painful, and is caused by inflamed papules and pustules. The end result is often thick scarring around the nape of the neck in African-American men.

Actinic Keratosis: This form of acne looks like a rough, scaly looking lesion; small, solid, elevated skin lesion less than 0.5 cm in diameter or a flat skin lesion that has a different color than the surrounding normal skin. It is a direct cause of cumulative sun exposure.

Acne Vulgaris: This disease is the most common skin disease in the United States. It is a disease of the pilosebaceous unit (the sebaceous follicle, sebaceous glands and sebaceous ducts) and is characterized by comedones, pustules, papules, nodules, and cysts. It usually erupts during adolescence, but may continue to erupt even after adolescence.

Acrylic: It has moisture barrier as well as waterproofing, water repelling properties.

Actinic keratoses are sun induced precancerous lesions that are thin to thick scaly patches of skin on sun exposed areas, backs of hands, arms and face. These can be prevented by wearing sunscreen and protective clothing.

Adapalene: Adapalene is a new retinoid molecule that has been specifically engineered for the treatment of acne vulgaris (a common acne disease effecting the pilosebaceous unit).

Adenosine Triphosphate: A synthetic riboflavin (Vitamin B2) that functions as a catalyst in the tanning process.

Age Spots: A darkly pigmented (colored) area on the skin that occurs with age. A darkly pigmented (colored) area on the skin that occurs with age.

Algal Polysaccharides: This extract is known to help moisturize and lubricate. It is derived from red marine algae gathered off the Hawaiian coast.

Algisium Complex: A natural marine-derived complex that functions as an anti-inflammatory agent.

Alkaline: Any non-acid substance with a pH greater than 7.

Allergen: Allergen is a substance that causes an allergic reaction.

Allantoin: A botanical extract said to heal and soothe. Used in creams and topical preparations for the skin.  Allantoin: Allantoin is an extract of the comfrey plant and is used for its healing, soothing, and anti-irritating properties. This extract can be found in anti-acne products, sun care products, and clarifying lotions because of its ability to help heal minor wounds and promote healthy skin.

Almond Oil: Vegetable oil derived from almonds with softening properties. Used in cosmetics.

Aloe Vera: Aloe Vera is one of the most widely recognized skin care ingredients.An emollient resin with hydrating/softening properties. A natural plant extract from the Aloe Vera plant which has a variety of skin conditioning effects, including moisturizing; also aids in healing. Commonly used in skin creams, lotions and skin cleansers, as well as hand sanitizers and other skin and hair care products. It helps the skin replenish lost moisture and when applied to skin injuries, minor wounds, burns, rashes, or lesions, it works immediately and effectively to heal and soothe.

Aloe Vera Extract: An extract of the aloe vera plant known for the hydrating and soothing properties.

Aloe Vera Gel: An oil extract of the aloe vera leaf that contains excellent hydrating, softening and soothing properties. This extract is also a source of allantoin.

Aloe Vera Oil: See Aloe Vera Gel.

Alpha Bisabolol: An effective anti-microbial-type gum resin with anti-irritant properties.

Alpha Hydroxy: An active substance with exfoliating and emollient properties. AHA is hailed internationally as a 'wonder' ingredient originally derived from fruits ( The original name 'Fruit Acids'), they revolutionized the skincare industry worldwide when they were introduced in products in 1990s as they could be utilized in multiple ways . These substances are weak hygroscopic acids that absorb moisture from the atmosphere and also help in exfoliation (removal) of dead cells on the surface layer of the skin. The result is dramatic, these products reduces fine lines, smooths and firms skin, and removes blemishes, at the same time moisturizing and protecting. Your skin immediately looks fresher, radiant and more luminous. These products can only remove superficial lines and wrinkles which appear at a young age but cannot act as a cure at middle/advanced age and hence cannot be called an anti-aging or age defying treatment.

AHA/BHA - Alpha or beta hydroxy acid, which helps skin hold water and look fresher and brighter through chemical exfoliation. Usually made with fruit acids.

Alpha-Lipoic Acid: Also known as thioctic acid. Called the “master?or “universal?anti­oxidant because it is the only anti-oxidant that is both lipid and water-soluble (works both inside and outside the cell) and can help “recycle?both lipid and water-soluble vitamins and anti-oxidants, specifically vitamins C and E and coenzyme QlO, extending their ability to scavenge free-radicals. One of the most potent anti-oxidants (can scavenge a large amount of hydroxyl or “free?radicals). Improves sugar metabolism and energy production as it is a small enough molecule to penetrate the mitochondria of the cell, where energy is produced. Works synergistically with other anti-oxidants and vitamins to enhance their benefit. Helps promote production of glutathione, one of the most important anti-oxidants that the body produces (glutatluione helps maintain cellular integrity). Alpha-lipoic acid is produced naturally in the body, but only in tiny amounts; and alpha-lipoic can be ingested in foods such as liver, yeast, red meat and certain green vegetables (such as spinach), but also only in tiny amounts. Products: emerginC hyper­vitalizer face and eye creams, emerginC complexion-perfection.

Antioxidants - Compounds and vitamins that defend against free radicals. Renova, Retin-A, Retinol, and vitamin C products are all antioxidants. They boost skin's radiance and minimize age spots, sun spots and fine lines.

Aminomethyl Propanedial: An alkalizer / neutralizer used to adjust pH in cosmetic preparations.

Ammonium Hydroxide: An ingredient used to stabilize and adjust the acids in skin peels and hair waving and straightening.

Androgens. Hormones that stimulate sebaceous glands in addition to other effects on the body. Present in both males and females, androgens are responsible for physical maturation in males and therefore occur in much higher levels in males. Males tend to have more severe acne than females.

Anesthetics (topical) are creams or gels that cause the skin to become numb or lose sensation to pain or awareness.

Antiaging: Substances and behavior that can prevent premature aging of the skin caused by environmental influences and nutritional deficiencies.

Antibacterial: Substances that can kill bacteria and treat infections.

Anti-Oxidants: Anti-oxidants help scavenge and “neutralize?free radicals (OH hydroxyl radicals). Free radicals are atoms or molecules that are missing a pair of electrons, making them unstable. Because of this instability, free radicals can damage healthy cells: cross linking of collagen can occur (leading to wrinkles) and oxidation can harm lipids and proteins essential for healthy skin. Therefore, free radicals are a major cause of aging skin and anti-oxidants a major weapon against free radicals. Free radicals can also cause damaging cellular inflammation and anti-oxidants can diminish or eliminate this inflammation. All anti-oxidants have anti-inflammatory properties. Products: almost all emerginC products.

Althea: Botanical root believed to have emollient and soothing capabilities for skin.

Arbutin: Arbutin is a natural, plant derived, highly-effective, stable skin whitening agent that works on the skin by transforming excessive melanin production into colorless substances as well as competing with certain enzymes that inhibit tyrosine oxidation by tyrosinase (a main cause of hyper-pigmentation). UV damage (primarily from the sun) is one of the main causes of hyper-pigmentation). Products: emerginC spot, emerginC lighten up under-eye circle fighter.

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptides:   Vitamin C in nature is always conjugated with water-soluble protein or polypeptides. Elixic C formula incorporates a vitamin C complex similar to that in its natural form. Therefore, it's extremely stable and readily available to convert to vitamin C, when applied to the skin. Ascorbic Acid: (vitamin C) Found naturally in fruits and green vegetables and is essential for normal metabolism, wound healing, and tissue repair. Ascorbic Acid is often used as a preservative and as an anti-oxidant to help prevent free radical damage in the skin.

Astringent: Toner helpful in controlling surface oils and in lowering the pH after cleansing.

Atrophic skin and wrinkles are other names for thin skin that has fine lines.

Avocado Oil (Persea americana) Avocado Oil is one of the most penetrating oils. Technically, the avocado is a fruit; and the oil is mechanically pressed out of the dehydrated, thinly sliced fruit. Avocado Oil, if unrefined, is a pale or olive green. Clear Avocado Oil has been bleached; pale yellow Avocado Oil has been refined. Unrefined Avocado Oil will have a strong, green aroma and is rich in Vitamin A and D as well as lecithin, potassium, and chlorophyll. It is a very moisturizing oil and especially beneficial for rash, eczema, mature skin, parched skin, and aging skin.

Azulene: An anti-inflammatory and soothing agent, derived from German chamomile.

Azulene: A chamomile extract used in face and body creams, sunburn remedies, burn ointments, and bath salts.

Basal cell carcinomas are the most common form of skin cancers that are usually seen as pea size flesh colored pearly lesions that may have small blood vessels running through them. The use of sunscreens and sun protection will help prevent basal cell carcinomas.

bearberry extract: A natural, stable, highly-effective plant-based skin lightener that helps retard excessive melanin production without irritation. Products: emerginC lighten-up under-eye circle fighter.

Beeswax: One of the oldest ingredients in cosmetic preparations, traditionally used as an emulsifier.

Bentonite - a clay formed from the decomposition of volcanic ash and used to help absorb oil.

Benzoic Acid: A preservative used in skin care products that is generally non-irritating, though it may cause a reaction in people who are sensitive to similar chemicals.

Benzoyl Peroxide: An antibacterial ingredient commonly used in acne treatments. Benzoyl peroxide (BP) acts as an antibacterial agent against P. acnes, a bacterium that aggravates acne. Benzoyl peroxide is most effective against inflammatory acne that consists of papules, pustules and cysts. BP causes mild desquamation often with scaliness, peeling and cracking. The drying will not cause wrinkles.  Start with the lower strength (2.5% or 5%) preparations first. The stronger strengths (5% & 10%) can be irritating. A gel is usually more drying and stronger than a lotion or a cream. A BP wash is a good way to start verses a BP gel, lotion or cream. Benzoyl peroxide can bleach the clothing or the sheets.

Bergamot: This is an antiseptic and bacterial growth-inhibitor known for its toning, antiseptic and deodorizing qualities.

Beta carotene: Orange colored plant pigments, used in the manufacture of vitamin A.  Research has suggested that it may be possible to sheild the body's immune system from harmful UVA rays-and reduce the risk of skin cancer- by suplementing the diet with beta-carotene. Too much, however, can cause a yellowing of the skin called Carotenemia.

Beta hydroxy: An exfoliating agent with a smaller molecule size than the alpha hydroxy. beta-hydroxy acid: A naturally-derived acid that with a strong keratolytic effect (removes dead skin cells). Excellent for acne, problem skin, for peeling, etc

Beta-glucan: A new ingredient derived from yeast, reported to enhance the skin natural defense mechanisms. A new ingredient derived from yeast, reported to enhance the skin natural defense mechanisms.

Bioflavonoid: Plant derivative with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Usually derived from citrus fruit rinds. Bioflavonoids have ability to increase the strength of the capillaries and to regulate their permeability. They assist Vitamin C in keeping collagen, the intercellular "cement" in healthy condition; Essential for the proper absorption and use of vitamin C; prevents Vitamin C from being destroyed in the body by oxidations. A deficiency of these nutrients may result in varicose veins, a tendency to bruise and bleed easily, and/or the appearance of purplish spots on the skin.
 

Biopsy is a surgical procedure to remove a small piece of skin for pathological examination under a microscope.

Biotin: Part of vitamin B complex. Involved in the metabolism of fats, carbohydrates and proteins.

Blackheads: A term used to describe the skin's pores clogged by natural oils and impurities.

Blackhead. An open, noninflammatory comedo.

Blister (vesicle, a small blister) is a fluid-filled area of skin. Blisters and vesicles may be seen in contact eczema, hand eczema, and fungal infections. They can also be seen in shingles (herpes zoster) other more unusual blistering disorders.

Boils are tender, swollen areas of infection that usually form around hair follicles.

Botanical: Refers to products derived from plants.

Botox: Trade name for botulinum toxin. Used in tiny amounts, it can temporarily paralyze a muscle and reduce or eliminate wrinkles or frown lines without harm.

Bromalin - proteolytic ( breaks down dermal protein)  enzyme from pineapples

Bronzers: A synthetic preparation that causes the skin to darken or appeared tanned.

Buffer: A pH balanced cleansing solution that improves the look and feel of the skin leaving it shiny and more supple.

Burdock: A root extract with antibacterial properties. May also reduce inflammations such as rashes, redness, acne, eczema.

Butcher's Broom: Botanical extract used to improve circulation and reduce facial redness. Also believed to have anti-cellulite effects.

Butylene Glyco: Solvents used to dilute. An organic humectant (promotes the retention of moisture in the skin) similar to propylene glycol.

Butyl Stearate: One of the most common stearic acids used in cosmetics, such as nail polish removers, lipsticks, and cleansing creams.

C12-15 Alcohols Benzoate: The ester of benzolic acid and C- 12-15 alcohols. An emollient (acts to smooth and soften skin) that provides a dry, silky feel to skin.

Calendula: An emollient believed to have healing, soothing and antiseptic properties. Used to treat dry skin. Calendula Extract: Derived from the dried flowers of golden marigolds. Used to soothe inflammation of the skin and mucous membranes. Calendula extract is used in herbology to reduce body scars, soothe chapped skin and eliminate broken capillaries. Considered to be an excellent remedy for red eyes and any skin abrasions or soreness. Used in fresheners, soothing creams, and sensitive skin products. Sometimes used in deodorants. Some adverse skin reactions have been reported in medical literature.

Calendula Infused Oil This is an infused oil which means the flowers/herbs have been soaked in oil for many weeks, then drained. Benefits: Contains effective anti-itching and anti-inflammatory properties.

Callus: An excessive build up of the hard tough layers of skin. Can be removed at-home or by an esthetician.

Camphor: A fragrant compound from an Asian Evergreen tree that is used in skin care products because it feels soothing to the skin. Camphor will not affect the outcome of an acne breakout, but it is helpful for chapped skin. If inhaled for a long time, camphor can induce a severe headache.

Candela Wax: Binds oils and waxes to give body to a formulation. Often used in lipsticks.

Candida Infection (commonly called a yeast infection) is a skin infection caused by yeast that can occur in the skin folds, the navel, vagina, penis, mouth, and nail beds.

Capillary: The smallest type of blood vessel in the body. Spider veins, for instance, are actually small capillaries commonly found on the face or legs.

Capric / caprylic triglycerides - skin conditioning agent from the mixed triester of glycerol, caprylic and capric acid. Caprylic acid is an oil liquid which is soluble in water and derived from the oil of lavender, oil of lime, oil of lovage, orange peel and coconut oil. It is formed by the oxidation of octanol. Capric acid is a crystalline fatty acid found in the fats and oils of a large group of plants. Both of these forms of triglycerides act as an emollient and a barrier agent to help bind water in the skin.

Capryloyl Glycin :   A lipo-aminoacid with antiseptic & anti-microbial properties, equally effective in combating bacteria found in acne lesions as benzoyl peroxide, commonly used in acne medications, without its characteristic dryness & irritancy.

Catalase - enzyme which breaks down hydrogen peroxide into oxygen and water

Cellulite: Deposits of fat and other material trapped in pockets beneath the skin. Cellulitis is a bacterial infection of the skin characterized by redness, swelling and tenderness.

Ceramides: A natural substance within the skin that reduces natural water loss of the skin by forming a protective barrier. Can also be produced synthetically and added to skin care products.  ceramides:  Natural-derived plant extract, spongelike in form, that helps to maintain moisture levels in the epidermis.

Ceramides make up the bulk of the lipid layer which holds the skin's cells together in a firm, smooth structure. They maintain the moisture retention ability of the skin. A drop in the level of ceramides results in the skin becoming dry and hard, leading in turn to fine lines and wrinkles. If the body loses its ability to supply ceramides your skin looses its structure & texture. Synthesized skin-identical ceramides became commercially available in the 1990s. There are several types of ceramides, and they visibly reverse the signs of aging even in severe cases.

Cetearyl Glucoside :  Principal emusifier in the formulas for most Beauty Naturally products. The brand used is an all natural emulsifier, derived from corn and coconut oil, without the use of a chemical reagent or even an organic solvent.

Cetyl Alcohol :   (fatty alcohol) Not an "alcohol" in the sense of a rubbing alcohol, etc. It's actual used as an emollient & emulsifier, derived from coconut oil or may be synthetically produced. A gentle humectant, lather booster, and emulsifier. In hair products, it is used to smooth and soften the hair cuticle.
Chakras: Energy centers throughout the body responsible for the condition of your mind, body and spirit.

Chamomile: A clinically proven plant-derived anti-inflammatory. Offers benefits such as soothing skin. Also calms eczema and allergic reactions. A daisy like plant. Extract from the white and yellow heads chamomile flowers is used as an excellent skin soother and anti-inflammatory agent. Reputed to bring down swelling and pain in the skin and mucous membranes. Chamomile is used extensively in professional skin care products for its essential oil called azulene. Also calms eczema and allergic reactions. It is used in many hair care products to enhance color. It acts as an emollient, anti-inflammatory, skin soothing agent and provides antioxidation.

Chelating agents - a chemical agent used to form a ring of atoms of which one is a metal atom.

Citric Acid: The same as vitamin C. Used commonly in hair and skincare products. Has astringent and antioxidant properties and also can be used as a preservative.

Citronella Oil: Antiseptic widely used in soaps and deodorizers. Also has insect-repelling properties.

Clarifying: Usually associated with a toner or other solution used after cleansing to maintain proper skin pH.

Clindamycin: An antibiotic often prescribed topically to treat acne. Caution: has provoked severe colitis.

Clove: The herb increases circulation, promotes digestion and nutrition, raises the body temperature; stimulates the excretory organs, and stimulates and disinfects the kidneys, skin, liver and bronchial mucous membrane.

Clover Blossom: Clover Blossom is beneficial in the treatment of acne.

Clove Bud Oil: A natural essential oil made from clove buds, syzygium atmaticum that adds a sweet, spicy smell to skin care products.

Clove Oil: Extracted from the plant, Eugenia caryophyllata, it is used for its anti-inflammatory anti-irritant properties in creams and lotions.

Co-enzyme Q10   Coenzyme Q1O is a vitamin-like anti-oxidant, essential for cellular energy. It acts like the “spark?is all cellular activity and is an important defense against sun damageCo-enzyme Q10 has two important roles: it is an essential part of the cellular respiration system located in the mitochondria, and it is an antioxidant. CoQ10 improves both the rate and efficiency of energy production in the cells, including the skin and at the same time protects mitochondria from free radicals. CoQ10 is sometimes called a "biomarker of ageing" because its level correlates so well with ageing.

In most people over thirty, levels of CoQ10 in the skin is below optimum, resulting in a lesser ability to produce collagen, elastin and other important skin molecules. CoQ10-depleted skin may also be more prone to the damage by free radicals, which are particularly abundant with exposure of the skin to the elements. Thus, CoQ10 may boost skin repair and regeneration. Furthermore, CoQ10 is a small molecule that can relatively easily penetrate into skin cells.

Cocamide DEA: Shampoo thickener and foam stabilizer derived from coconut fatty acids. It gives lather and cleans the skin and hair. It also assists in removal of fatty soils.

Cocamide MEA: Monoamide (MEA) as opposed to diamide (DEA). See Cocamide DEA.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: Derived from coconut fatty acids it is known for it mild conditioning properties. It is an amphoteric surfactant (an agent where the active molecule bears both positive and negative charges). It is used as a cleanser agent and as an additive to shampoos and conditioners. .

Cocoa Butter: Its mainly used is a thickening agent and is a common ingredient in lipsticks, soaps and emollient creams. . It easily absorbs into the skin and imparts sheen.

Cold sore is a cluster of small blisters on the skin, most frequently around the mouth and lips caused by the herpes simplex virus. Cold sores can be activated by sunlight. Wearing a lip protectant with sunscreen may prevent a cold sore.

Collagen: A natural substance within body tissues. It can be injected into the skin to plump up particular areas.A fibrous protein found in skin, bone, cartilage, tendon, and other connective tissues.  A fibrous substance, derived from bovine placenta used as a super moisturizer.

Comedones, commonly known as black heads or white heads, occur when a hair follicle becomes plugged with sebum (oil). When the sebum is exposed to the environment it can oxidized and turn black (black heads). When the follicle is closed and not exposed to the environment they are cream colored (white heads). Keratolytic agents (Glycolic acid and salicylic acid) are helpful in treating blackheads and whiteheads seen in acne.

Comedo (plural: comedones). An acne lesion.

Closed comedo. A whitehead; a non-inflammatory comedo with white center.

copper: Copper serves a number of key functions in the skin. It is essential in the production of elastin, as it stimulates enzymes (specifically, lysil oxidase) to help build new elastin. In the production of collagen, the stimulation of lysil oxidase is stimulated by copper (which helps to link collagen molecules to the building of collagen fibers). Copper also plays an integral role in the production of keratin in the epidermis, thereby helping to improve skin tone and texture.

Cortex: The middle layer of the hair shaft.

Creams are waterbased products that should easily work into skin. Creams tend to degrade more rapidly than an ointment and are often combined with perfumes or fragrances. Creams are thicker than lotions but are not as thick as Ointments.

Creatine: A protein derivative in muscle tissue. Sometimes found in body-building supplements.

Crusts (also called scabs) are formations of dried blood, pus, or other skin fluid over a break in the skin.

Cucumber Juice: It has moisture-binding, soothing and tightening properties.

Cyclomethicone - a cyclic dimethyl polysiloxane. Skin conditioning agent and emollient. Confers an incredibly soft, silky feel to the skin, evaporates quickly leaving little residue on the skin.

Cryosurgery is a surgical technique that uses liquid nitrogen to freeze the skin.

Cryotherapy is a procedure with liquid nitrogen that destroys the top layer of skin by freezing. Cryotherapy is used by dermatologists to treat actinic keratoses and warts.

Cysts are round nodules under the skin that are filled with cheesy contents or fluid.

DEA (Diethanolamine): A neutralizing agent that raises pH.

DEA Oleth - 3 Phosphate: An emulsifier that prevents separation of product. Adds shine.

DEA Oleth - 10 Phosphate: An emulsifier derived from oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid.

Depilate: To remove hair on the skin's surface.

Dermabrasion: A procedure in which the skin is sanded to improve its texture. Microdermabrasion uses a type of sand to abrade the skin, usually done by an esthetician or a cosmetic doctor.

Dermal Papilla: Projection from the dermis that extends upward into the epidermis. The Dermal Papilla helps anchor the epidermis and dermis.

Dermatitis: Any inflammation of the skin. The reason may be a bacterium, fungus, or parasite; it can also be a foreign substance like an allergen. See Contact Dermatitis.

Dermatology: The study of the skin, its structures, functions, and diseases.

Dermatologist: A physician who specializes in the study of the skin, its structures, functions, and diseases (dermatology).

Dermatosis: A non-specific term used to denote any skin disease.

Dermis: The lower layers of the skin; the layers of skin beneath the epidermis.

Dermatitis is a general term for inflammation of the skin often seen as red, scaling, and a vesicular eruption.

Dermabrasion: A procedure in which the skin is sanded to improve its texture. Microdermabrasion uses a type of sand to abrade the skin, usually done by an esthetician or a cosmetic doctor. Cosmetic physicians can perform a deeper type of dermabrasion using small burrs or wires to remove the outer layers of the skin.

Dermal: Related to skin.

Dermatitis: Inflamation of the skin.

Dermis: The underlayers of the skin.

Desquamation: The sloughing of dead corneocytes (cells located in the epidermis that are packed with fibrous protein called Keratin) from the horny cell layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum). The final stage in the ongoing cycle of skin cell birth, maturation, and death.

Detoxification: Process of ridding the body of toxins.

Diazolidinyl: Cosmetic Preservative.

Dicaprate: Emulsifier (a thickening agent that helps bind different ingredients together).

Dicaprylate: Emulsifier (a thickening agent that helps bind different ingredients together).

Dicetyldimonium Chloride: A quaternary ammonium salt. Used often as a conditioning agent, compatible with surfactants and often used in shampoos.

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA): Obtained from glycerol, used to artificially tan skin. Reacts with amino acids in skin to provide a natural looking suntanned appearance. Usually derived from sugar cane, it causes the surface layer of the skin to oxidize.

Dimethicone - a silicone fluid used to give a smooth feel to a cosmetic cr?e or lotion. Contributes a degree of water repellence, promotes easy spreading and leaves a smooth feeling without feeling either sticky or oily. Helps in the even dispersal of other ingredients.  An oil derived from silicone, a substance extracted from rocks and sand, used to facilitate smoothness to the skin.

Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE)   Also known as: 2-dimethylaminoethanol. DMAE is an antioxidant membrane stabilizer. Helps firm and tighten facial and neck skin.  With continued use, it helps strengthen and stabilize cells' plasma membrane...for a more defined, youthful appearance.  Because of its unique structure it actually intersperses and becomes part to the cell plasma membrane. When this occurs, the membrane is more able to resist stress and therefore is stabilized.

It also gives some protection from free radicals probably by preventing the other portions of the cell membrane from being attacked by free radicals. Is an antioxidant booster that enhances the strength of other antioxidant therapies.

When mixed with other amino acids and nutrients, it has a dramatic firming effect.
 

Di/Cyclomethicone :  An inert fluid of dense viscosity, promotes easy spread, leaves soft, smooth feel to the skin.

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA): The FDA approved active ingredient in topical self-tanning products. This is a harmless skin dye that reacts with an amino acid in the skin or sweat to produce a temporary tan that flakes off as you shed skin. The higher the concentration, the more orange the tan will appear. Does not offer any skin protection against the sun.

Dong Quai: Traditional Chinese herb used to treat menopausal symptoms and menstrual irregularity.
 

Eau de Parfum: The most concentrated fragrance, usually more costly than eau de toilette because of its concentration.

Eau de Toilette: A less-concentrated fragrance.

Echinacea: An oral homeopathic substance thought to boost the immune system. Frequently taken for cold or flu symptoms. Has anti-itching and soothing properties when used in skin-care products.

Eczema: A skin condition that causes areas of the skin to become red, itchy and scaly. The cause is unknown and it can affect any part of the body. The condition may be short-lived (acute) or long term (chronic), and is usually treated with topical anti-inflammatory medications available OTC or by prescription.

Eczema, Acute: An intensely itching, red, scaling, blistering, weeping, oozing skin rash.

Eczema, Asteatotic: Severe dry skin that is more common during the winter months and in the elderly.

Eczema, Chronic: Moderate to intense itching, hyper pigmented, dry scaling, lichenified (lichenification: thick, leathery skin, usually the result of constant scratching and rubbing), excoriated (excoriation: scratch; linear break in the skin surface. Often covered with blood or crust), skin rash.

Eczema Craquele: Severe dry, cracked looking scaly skin.

Eczema Dermatitis: Any number of skin diseases, including atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, hand dermatitis, and asteatotic eczema.

Eczema, Subacute: A less intense version of Eczema, Acute. See Eczema, Acute.

EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic Acid)- acts as a synergist in aiding preservative action and assisting anti-oxidants such as vitamins A, C and E to improve product stability through chelating and sequestering metal ions. Enhances efficacy of skin lightening actives. Works to assist in preventing the physical change of cosmetics by maintaining the efficacy of the preservatives and preventing the separation of the various components making up the product.

Elasticity - The skin's ability to snap back into position when stretched like a rubber band. Loss of elasticity results in sagging skin that sags into wrinkle formations or hangs loose from the muscle and bone structures.

Elastin: A surface protective agent used in cosmetics to alleviate the effects of dry skin.  This protein is responsible for the elasticity of body tissues, more specifically, the skin. An elastin is also a surface protective agent used in cosmetics to alleviate the effects of dry skin

Electrolysis: Use of electricity to dissolve hair roots

Emollient: A substance that softens and soothes the skin.

Emulsifier: A thickening agent added to products to change their physical composition. For example, it can turn a lotion into a cream.

Epidermabrasion: A skin peel in which the outermost layers of the skin (epidermal skin layers) are sloughed off (sloughed: to become shed or cast off; to separate in the form of dead tissue from living tissue).

Epidermis: The outer layers of the skin.

Epilate: Remove hair from below the skin's surface

Essence: Fragrant oil extracted from plant or herb.

Essential Fatty Acids ( EFAs) EFAs are a part of the lipid layer, and help maintain the suppleness and elasticity of skin. These fats have long been known to be necessary for the body's functioning, their deficiency results in the skin losing moisture and leading to hardening and drying. Only recently, however, has their role in skincare become clearly understood. Essential Fatty Acids along with Ceramides, Oxidants, Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Vitamin A & E work harmoniously to ensure that the skin is nourished from deep within. They are now an important constituent of products for intensive skincare.

Essential Oils  Essential oils have a long tradition of providing a variety of therapeutic benefits. Many of these traditionally known benefits, have been confirmed through modern scientific research. The use of essential oils in a cosmetic will have an antiseptic and antimicrobial action, as well as a healing and soothing effect on the skin. Essential oils help the skin and hair detoxify, drain, heal and regenerate.

Essential Oils are readily absorbed through the skin and hair follicles and carried to all parts of the body, having an effect, which can last from a few hours to a few days.

Esters: Compounds formed by reactions of organic acids with alcohol's. The esters used in cosmetics are usually emollients (skin soothers and softeners) and are designed to spread easily and penetrate our skin effectively. They tend to resist rancidity better than natural oils, thus their common use in products.

Esthetician: A beauty specialist.

Ethanol: An Alcohol solvent used to dilute.

Eucalyptus: A mild astringent with antiseptic properties.

Evening Primrose: Used as an astringent and helpful for reducing skin irritation. Also beneficial for dehydrated skin.

Exfoliate: To scale off layers of skin.

Exfoliant - the process of removing the damaged outer layers of skin is usually performed by alpha or beta hydroxy acids (AHAs & BHA’s). The result of this exfoliation is to increase the turnover of surface skin cells thereby generally leaving a plumper smoother skin with a more even skin tone with a better color. AHAs and BHA’s have largely replaced scrubs that act as mechanical rather than chemical exfoliants. AHAs are most effective while still not being unreasonably irritating, at a concentration of 5 - 10% while BHA’s tend to be most effective at a concentration of 1 - 2%. Both naturally occurring groups of acids suit an acidic medium. AHAs are water-soluble and their effectiveness diminishes over time after each application. Conversely, BHA’s are oil-soluble and tend to continue exfoliating at a constant rate.

Exfoliator - Gently scrubs skin to remove dead layers and reveal fresh new cells, which means brighter skin.

 

Fennel extract - is an extract of the fruit of Foeniculum vulgare. Biologically active. Natural cleanser and detoxifier. Fights water retention and improves skin tone.

Folic Acid: (Vitamin B9) Necessary for DNA & RNA synthesis. It is essential for the growth and reproduction of all body cells.

Folate: (Vitamin B9) See Folic Acid.

Follicle: Part of the skin which the root of hair comes from

Folliculitis is an inflammation of the hair follicles due to an infection or irritation.  On the beard it is called folliculitis barbae.  Using a good shaving cream can help reduce this type of folliculitis.

Free Radicals  These are atoms or molecules with an unpaired electron and are highly reactive.  They are produced by the environment; sunlight, heat and radiation.  Free radicals can damage the skin by attacking cellular membranes.

Freckles, Age Spots, Solar Lentigines, Liver Spots are darkened, flat spots that typically appear on sun-exposed areas of skin. These can be lightened by bleaching agents containing hydroquinone or kojic acid. Sunscreens can help prevent freckles.

Fungal Infections, Athelete's foot, jock itch, and ringworm are scaling patches on the skin cause by fungi called dermatophytes.

Fruit Acid: The same as glycolic acid (reduces build up of excess dead skin cells).
 

Geranium: A mild astringent with antiseptic properties; promotes healing.

Ginkgo Biloba  Originally from Asia, ginkgo biloba is known for its great revitalizing, stimulating, and firming qualities. A powerful Antioxidant that has detoxifying qualities. Found to improve circulation by helping to increase healthy blood flow to skin. Known for its anti-aging properties that give a healthier, rosy, younger looking skin.

Ginseng: Considered to be a tonic. Believed to be nourishing due to its vitamin and hormone content. It is taken orally and is also felt to have energy boosting capabilities.

Glutamic Acid: An amino acid included in some expensive cosmetics that purport to improve the appearance of the skin. All amino acids combine to form proteins under certain chemical conditions, but because more than two different amino acids are needed to form useful proteins, simply including glutamic acid in a skin cream will not provide much benefit. Further, it is not possible to rebuild the proteins of your skin with amino acids, and they are not absorbed when applied to the skin.

Glycereth: Polyethylene glycol ester of glycerin. An emollient (skin smoothener and softener).

Glycereth 26: Polyethylene glycol ester of glycerin with an average ethoxylation value of 26. An emollient (skin smoothener and softener).

Glycerin: An effective natural moisturizer at low concentrations; glycerin is a humectant, and at higher concentrations attracts moisture from the environment. Commonly used in skin creams, lotions, skin cleansers. Helps condition the skin. A humectant (draws moisture from the air to moisturize the skin) that absorbs moisture from the air to keep hair and skin moist. It is also used as an emollient (skin smoothener and softener), lubricant (skin lubricator that helps prevents moisture loss), emulsifier (thickener) and diluting agent in cosmetics.  

Glyceryl Monostearate: A wax like solid emollient (skin smoothener and softener), emulsifier (thickener) derived from natural stearic acid and glycerin; also pearlescent (emitting or reflecting light readily or in large amounts, rainbow like colors) agent.   A wax like solid used as an emulsifying and thickening agent.

Glyceryl Stearate: A monoester of glycerin and stearic acid. An emollient and emulsifier. See Glyceryl Monostearate.

Glycolic Acid: Reduces build up of excess dead skin cells.

Glycolic Acid Glycolic acid is found in sugar cane and is the simplest molecular form of all the alpha-hydroxy acids and therefore can penetrate deeper within the skin.  Glycolic acid helps soften scarring of acne-damaged skin, smoothes the fine lines in older, sun-damaged skin, helps diminish fine lines and wrinkles, and helps lighten age and sun spots.

Known as the "Superstar" of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA), glycolic acid is a particular AHA with a small molecular size. Because so many skin problems are caused by or associated with the build up of dead cells, this small molecular size makes it ideal for cosmetic use and in achieving desired results. Glycolic acid penetrates the skin and slowly and naturally sloughs away the dead cells that build up on the outer layer of skin leaving the skin looking smoother and healthier. Assists in the exfoliation of the hyper pigmented skin cells resulting from sun damage.

Glycolic peel: A glycolic peal is used to help peel or exfoliate the skin.

Glycolipids: A plant-derived mixture of glycoceramides that help promote a stronger, healthier skin barrier.   They are able to stabilize creams and lotions without irritating surfactants. They form rich gels, solubilize fats in alcoholic preparations, prevent fat crystallization or bind water in lipsticks and make-up formulations. Glycolipids enhance the bioavailability of other active ingredients. They are hydrating, restructuring, film forming, smoothing and refatting ingredients. Phospholipids and Glycolipids give a very rich skin feel to cosmetics. Therefore these membrane lipids are the best natural and biological solution for emulsions and modern delivery systems in cosmetics.

Glycol Stearate: The monoester of ethylene glycol and stearic acid. An emollient and an emulsifier used in lotions and shampoos to achieve a pearling effect. See Glyceryl Monostearate.

Glycosaminoglycans: (GAG’s) The skin is composed of two layers, epidermis and dermis. The epidermis consists of many layers of dead skin, which are supported by the dermis. The dermis is made up of a network of collagen fibers and elastin, surrounded by a gel-like substance called the Ground substance. The ground substance is composed glycosaminoglycans (formerly called mucopolysaccharides), non-collagen proteins and water. Glycosaminoglycans promote the ability of collagen fibers to retain water and bind moisture into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The addition of glycosaminoglycans results in skin that has more moisture and increased flexibility.

Golden Seal: Herb used as a mild antiseptic

Grape Seed Oil : It has moisturizing and nourishing properties due to its high linoleic acid content.

green tea: Green tea contains polyphenols, a class of bioflavanoids, with high anti­oxidant properties (approx.200 times more effective anti-oxidant than vitamin E). Green tea is also an effective anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory agent, and may have other benefits for the skin.

Herpes zoster (also called shingles): a viral infection in a nerve root, characterized by a painful skin rash with small blisters usually on one side of the body. See your dermatologist as soon as possible to receive anti-viral medications.

Hives, wheals or urticaria are raised welt like swellings on the skin that come and go usually within 24 hours.

Hops extract - a biologically active extract derived from Humulus lupulus.

Horse Chestnut Extract (HCE)  A natural astringent derived from this herbal extract.Horse Chestnut Extract (HCE) and its primary active constituent, escin, exert several beneficial affects on the circulatory system. HCE is a veinotonic (tonifies the veins) and helps reduce fluid accumulation in the tissues. It has been shown to reduce leg circumference and volume in individuals with excessive fluid accumulation in these tissues. HCE also helps protect blood vessels from damaging free radicals.

Humectant: A substance that attracts moisture. producing moisture, a moisture attracting substance or a substance added to another to keep it moist. An ingredient used to attract moisture to the skin.

Hyaluronic Acid: An acid that occurs naturally in the skin, helps retain the skin's natural moisture.

Hydrate: To add moisture to the skin

Hydroquinone: A bleaching agent used in skin preparations. Hydroquinone: A skin bleaching agent that can reduce the intensity of pigmentation due to freckles, melasma, and senile lentigines. When applied to the skin over a period of several months, the skin temporarily becomes somewhat lighter. For continued and increased effectiveness it must be used for a longer term. Sun exposure should be avoided because it reverses the effect of hydroquinone by increasing skin pigmentation. Occasionally, at higher concentrations, persons with a darker skin type will experience increased pigmentation. There is mild skin irritation and the possibility of an allergic reaction

Hydroquinone - a prescription skin lightening agent linked with the development of skin cancer.

Hyperpigmentation: Darkening of the skin, commonly produced by ultraviolet radiation, which provokes melanocytes in the skin.

Hyper pigmentation - excessive clumping of pigment (melanin) in the skin.

Hypoallergenic - any substance but usually a protein, unlikely to induce an allergy reaction.

Hypodermis: Below the surface of the skin.

 

Immunostimulant: An agent that stimulates either innate or acquired immunity.

Immunosuppressant: An agent that acts to suppress the body's natural immune response.

Impetigo is a bacterial skin infection characterized by small pus-filled blisters that form honey-yellow crusts. U

Instant Conditioner: A conditioner with light to intense conditioning properties that restores a healthy look and protects against further damage.

Irritant: A substance that consistently and predictably produces an adverse response (such as reddening, swelling, itching, burning, or blistering) in virtually all of the population. Irritants are not to be confused with allergens.

iron: Iron is important for the micro-circulation of the skin. In addition, it is essential in the bio-synthesis of collagen as it helps transform certain proteins into liquefied collagen.
 

Jasmine: Essential oil extracted from plants and used in perfumes.

Jojoba: A tonic, emollient and moisturizer. Treats dry skin, wrinkles and stretch marks.

Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis)  Jojoba Oil is very similar to the natural oil our skin produces, though it is technically a liquid wax produced from the seed of the Jojoba simmondsia chinensis shrub. Usually, it is pressed but can be solvent extracted. Botantist H. F. Link recorded the jojoba plant in 1822 in Baja California and named it after a fellow British botanist/explorer, T. W. Simmonds. Jojoba Oil is naturally moisturizing, healing, and beneficial for all skin types; it is an excellent scalp treatment. The best claim to fame for Jojoba Oil is that it has been accepted as a substitute for sperm whale oil, formerly often used in the manufacture of cosmetics (the U.S. Government banned whaling in the early 1970's)!

Juniper: A fragrance considered a mild skin stimulant.


 

Karite: A natural emollient, protects and nourishes skin.

Karite Butter  From out of Africa comes karite butter (known as shea butter). Traditional uses of shea butter include: treatments for dry skin, blemishes, skin discoloration, scars and wrinkles, a relaxer for stiff muscles, as an aid for pain from swelling and arthritis, even as a sun screen. What makes shea butter so great for the skin is its high content of non-saponifiable fatty acids (comprised mostly of stearic and oleic acids.) These fatty acids are indispensable for moisturizing and retaining the elasticity of the skin. By making up for lipid (fat) deficiency in the epidermal cells, shea butter provides the skin with all the essential elements it needs for its good balance. Shea butter contains up to 11% of unsaponifiables, making it a superior super fatting material for soap making. Smooth on face, hands, and body, the gentle qualities of shea butter are used by the cosmetics and soap industries in such products as shampoos, creams, and balsam for the hair, and soaps and other cleaning products for the skin. Karite butter's healing, emollient, anti-oxidant, soothing, moisturizing and re-generative properties, make it an essential ingredient of numerous products.

Keloid: A thick scar. Keloids are smooth, pink, raised, firm growths on the skin produced by over production of collagen that form when a wound heals.

Keratin: A surface protective agent with film-forming and moisturizing action.

Keratosis pilaris is a common skin condition characterized by small, sand size raised bumps on the outside of the upper arms, thighs and bottom. Keratosis pilaris is often seen in people with eczema. Glycolic acid and other alpha-hydroxy acid moisturizers can help smooth this sand paper like skin.

Kinetin: Kinetin is a plant-based, non-irritating growth factor extract (also known as furfuryladenine) that has shown to significantly reduce free-radical damage and photo-aging in cells as well as slow down aging of plant cells. In one demonstration, plant leaves coated with kinetin retain their fresh, vibrant color while uncoated leaves turn brown. While it is clear that kinetin has a potent anti-oxidant effect, it may also trigger other anti-aging mechanisms in the cell--but the latter theory is not conclusive.

Kojic Acid: Skin-lightening agent.  kojic acid: Kojic acid is a natural, effective lightener (derived from rice) that helps fade spots by retarding excessive melanin production. 

Kojic acid is extracted from mould grown on rice (Aspergillus oryzae) or that grown on soybean (Aspergillus sojae) and is used as a starter medium for the production of fermented food. Kojic acid is produced biologically by fermentation of bacteria on carbohydrates. The name is Japanese and comes from the word "koji" meaning "culture".

Skin color is determined by the quantity of melanin in the skin. Melanin is biosynthesized in the melanosome of the melanocyte - a process involving the presence of the enzyme tyrosinase. Kojic acid is known to inhibit tyrosinase thereby reducing the production of melanin.

Kojic acid is primarily used in cosmetics for it's skin lightening effect. It acts as an inhibitor of tyrosinase, which is responsible for the formation of melanin - the skin coloring agent in skin. Kojic acid also reduces existing melanin in the skin thereby assisting in the depigmentation of the skin. Kojic acid successfully reduces age spots and pigmentation on face and body, typically caused by sun damage. Kojic acid is also known to have an anti-microbial effect.

L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) : Vitamin C acid is a powerful anti-oxidant and inhibitor of melanin formation. Stimulates collagen production, promotes healthy looking skin. By itself, this ingredient is very unstable, but once stabilized as an integral part of the C-complex in the formula, it becomes bio-available to the skin, when applied.

Lactic Acid: A component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor. an alpha hydroxy acid (see AHA below). A natural component of human make-up, natural pH modifier and H.htm.

Lappa Extract - A botanical credited to be antibacterial and antifungal with the ability to help regulate/normalize oil production. Also known as burdock root extract.

Lauroamphocarboxyglycinate: Mild, foaming amphoteric organic compound used as a skin surface-cleansing agent (surfactant) for shampoos and facial cleansers.

Lanolin: An emollient with moisturizing properties and an emulsifier with high water absorbing capabilities.   A mixture of a yellow, oily substance obtained from sheep's wool and purified water that is used as an emollient to treat dry skin. Lanolin is a common ingredient of bath oils and hand creams. It is also used to treat mild dermatits. Occasionally, lanolin can irritate the skin, or in some people, an allergic reation develops.

Lecithin: A natural anti-oxidant and emollient mainly derived from common egg yolk or from naturally occurring phospholipids derived from soybeans. Lecithin helps protect the skin, soften the skin and replenish the acid mantle.

Licorice: Treats acne, also calms allergic skin.

Lipomas are round or oval lumps under the skin caused by fatty deposits. They can be multiple and occur in families.

Liposomes: Tiny sacs that deliver hydrating ingredients to skin cells. Earlier, liposomes were believed to be tiny enough to penetrate the horny layer of the epidermis and causing skin cells to hold to be able to hold water more effectively and for much longer periods of time than ordinary moisturizers. But as more research was conducted, researchers could not find proof that they were affecting the skin as well as was first believed.
 

Macrobiotics: The study of prolonging life with diet or other ingested substances.

Magnesium: Magnesium is essential in the bio-synthesis of collagen as it helps produce proteins that are later transformed into collagen. It is also necessary for normal cell metabolism as it plays a key role in ATP production.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Vitamin C that does not oxidize upon exposure to air; an antioxidant that is linked to collagen synthesis.

Magnesium Citrate: Magnesium salt of citric acid. It is used in hair sets or bodying agents.

Malic Acid: A glycolic acid derived from apples.This glycolic acid is great for removing dead skin cells (exfoliation) and brightening the skin (clarifying).

Malignant Melanoma - A type of skin cancer that can look like a small brown-black mole or even a larger multicolor patch. Can occur in pre-exsisting moles or moles that appear after age 21. It may sometimes appear crusty and/or bleed. This type of skin cancer can spread to other areas of the body and be fatal.

Mallow: An anti-inflammatory substance that helps prevent age lines and reduce eye swelling.

Mallow Extract: A mucilaginous (mucus like) gel that is soothing, healing, and softening to the skin; it also reduces inflammation, helps prevent age lines and reduces eye swelling.

Marjoram Oil: Warming and stimulating, the oil increases blood flow and aids in skin cell reproduction.

Manganese: Manganese is vital in the bio-synthesis of collagen as it helps activate key enzymes in the formation of collagen.

Mast Cell: Dermal cell which releases histamine and heparin (substances acting in response to a skin flare to redden the skin). These are a group of cells that line the capillaries of tissues that come in contact with the outside, like skin, sinuses, and lung mucosa.

Mate Extract: (Paraguay Tea) An extract that has been shown to reduce irritation often associated with the use of alpha and beta hydroxy acids in cosmetic formulations. Because of its high concentration of Theophylline and other anti-irritant xanthines, Paraguay tea is ideal for use in skin smoothing formulations. It is also an astringent, a stimulant and a vasodilator.

Matricaria: Also known as Chamomile.

Matt: A non-shiny surface that absorbs light.

Melanin: The black pigment found in hair or skin.Melanin: The pigment that naturally colors the hair and skin.

Melanoma: A type of skin cancer characterized by a black or dark brown pigmented tumor.

Melanin are pigment granules in the skin that give skin its color.

Melanocytes are pigment producing cells in the skin. These contain the pigment granules called melanin.

Melasma is symmetrical patches of brown pigment on the face.  Most often seen in females and can be exacerbated by estrogen and sunlight. Sunscreens can help prevent melasma and keep melasma away after treatment. Bleaching creams can help fade melasma.

Methyl gentisate - plant derived lightening agent ,less irritating than hydroquinone, powerful tyrosinase inhibitor

Methylparaben/Propylparaben: Food grade preservatives used to ensure shelf life, hygienic stability of all Dermalogica products; non-irritating, non-sensitizing and non-toxic. It's non - toxic and approved for use in foods. It is effective against a wide range of bacteria and fungi.

Methylsilanol Carboxymethyl Theophylline Alginate: A plant-derived complex that affects the enzymatic breakdown of lipids, the regeneration of connective tissue and the inflammatory process associated with tissue compression by fat cells.

Methylsulfonylmethane: (MSM) A patented substance found.MSM is necessary for collagen synthesis: skin, hair and nails. MSM keeps cells from becoming rigid. MSM softens tissue ("the beauty mineral"), and is believed to relieve stress, asthma, arthritis, inflammation, constipation, detoxify the body and increase blood circulation, reduce muscle cramps, and back pain, help muscles to heal, increases energy, alertness, mental calmness, and the ability to concentrate. MSM scavenges free radicals, relieves allergies to food and pollens, helps the liver produce choline, controls acidity in stomach and ulcers, coats intestinal tract so parasites lose ability to hang on, helps with hypersensitivity to drugs, increases body’s ability to produce insulin, is important for carbohydrate metabolism, and speeds wound healing.

Mistletoe extract - is an extract of the berries of Viscum album. Biologically active.

Moisturizer: An emollient cream used to hydrate skin.

Moles are small raised skin bumps caused by an increase in the number of pigment-producing cells (melanocytes) in the skin. Moles have a higher incidence of turning into melanomas.  The use of sunscreens particularly during childhood can decrease the incidence of melanomas and other skin cancers.

Mulberry extract - Sohakuhi or mulberry extract is obtained from the dried skin of the root of the mulberry found throughout Japan where this extract is produced. Sohakuhi has been credited with many healing functions for many years. More latterly, it has been recognized as a whitening agent as it contains phenylflavanoids, an element that whitens human skin by inhibiting the activation of tyrosinase. Tyrosinase is involved in the production of freckles so the inhibition of tyrosinase helps prevent the formation and subsequent darkening of freckles on the skin. Also known to be an anti-inflammatory and an emollient.

Myristyl Myristate: Ester of myristyl alcohol and myristic acid. Esters are light oils used as cosmetic emollients.
 

NaPCA: (Sodium PCA) The sodium salt of 2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylic Acid, NaPCA is one of the best moisture binders available, as well as a humectant (promotes the retention of moisture in the skin) and an emollient (acts to smooth and soften the skin).

nanotope liposomes: Nanotope liposomes, a patented delivery system originally designed for pharmaceutical use, are ultra-small carriers--three to five times smaller than conventional liposome s--that can entrap lipid or water soluble ingredients to help them better penetrate the skin.

Natural Botanicals  The use of plant extracts and herbs have their origins in ancient times, with the earliest records originating from China and Egypt. With the therapeutic properties of plants becoming more known, cosmetics are including many plant extracts, herbs, flowers, fruits and seed oleates into their ingredients, allowing for a gentler, more organic approach to beauty. Natural botanicals have the ability to detoxify, hydrate, strengthen, stimulate, relax and balance the skin and hair.

Naturopathy: A type of therapy that depends on natural forces rather than surgery or medicine to treat disease.

Neroli Oil  Neroli oil is extracted from bitter orange blossom.  It is used in skin care products to stimulate cell regeneration.  It is sedative and soothing and recommended for sensitive and dry skin, however, it appears beneficial for all skin types.

Niacin: (Vitamin B-3) Niacin improves circulation and reduces the cholesterol level in the blood; maintains the nervous system; helps metabolize protein, sugar & fat; reduces high blood pressure; increases energy through proper utilization of food; prevents pellagra; and helps maintain a healthy skin, tongue & digestive system. Go to the Vitamins Dictionary and look up Niacin ?Vitamin B3.

Niacinamide: (Niacin ?Vitamin B-3) Member of the water-soluble B vitamin group, used in the production of fatty acids, steroids and cholesterol, deficiency is known as pellagra. Has a cholesterol-lowering and vasodilating property. See Niacin.

Nodule: a solid, raised bump that is larger than a papule. Nodules can be seen in nodular-cystic acne.

Non-comedogenic: Also called non-occlusive. Refers to products that do not cause skin breakouts because they do not plug the pores of the skin.

Non-comedogenic: (Non-occlusive) Does not plug the pores of the skin.

Nonionic surfactants - Surfactant ingredients that have no positive or negative charge. They are used for their thickening benefit and as emulsifiers. Offer no direct cleansing benefits. Help give slip and glide to cream products.

Nucleic Acids: The building blocks of protein, these specific chemicals act on the nucleus of cells. They cannot stimulate growth when applied to the skin's surface or to the hair. However, like all proteins, nucleic acids in cosmetics can forma film on the skin or hair shaft to help retain moisture.

Oatmeal: A colloid-containing grain that soothes the skinand can be very helpful for itchy skin conditions. Oatmeal is often included in face masks and soaps because it absorbs oil from the skin's surface and lessens redness of irritating acne-prone skin. Non-irritating oatmeal soaps are a good choice for people with sensitive skin.

Octyl: A hypothetical hydrocarbon radical regarded as an essential residue of octane, and as entering into its derivatives; as, octyl alcohol.

Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer: Part of cationic system. A fixative that is water soluble if washed within 48 hours after application. Used for stiffness and high gloss in hair sprays.

Octylacrylamide Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer: see Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer.

Octyl Methoxycinnamate: A non-PABA sunscreen agent derived from cinnamic acid and manufactured in Switzerland that blocks UVB rays.

Octyl Palmitate: An emollient amplifying ester commonly used as a mineral oil replacement.

Octyl Salicylate: An antiseptic and sunburn preventative.

Octyl Stearate: Provides a barrier between skin and the elements; softens and smoothes the skin.

PABA: Para-aminobenzoic acid. Found in the vitamin B complex. Used as an ingredient in some sunscreen products.The abbreviation for the active ingredient in sunscreen-Para-Aminobenzoic Acid-which is very effective in blocking UVB rays of the sun. Some people are allergic to PABA and its esters, especially if they are allergic to the "-caine" group of anesthetics (lidocaine, benzocaine) or to certain hair dyes. Allergic reactions to PABA resemble sunburn.

Palette: A grouping of colors by family of tones or specific function.

Panthenol: Also known as vitamin B5, acts as a penetrating moisturizer.

Panthenol: A vitamin B complex that can add strength and body to hair by filling in cracks on the shaft, thereby firming up the fiber.

Papule: A small, solid, elevated skin lesion (common acne lesions) less than 0.5 cm in diameter. Papules can be seen in acne, drug eruptions, contact dermatitis, granuloma annulare, perioral dermatitis, rosacea and other skin disorders.

Patch: an abnormal area of the skin can be flat or scaly. Patches can be seen in seborrhea, psoriasis, and eczema.

Paraffin: A beeswax substitute derived from petroleum.

Passion Fruit  Native to Brazil, passion fruit is the edible fruit of the passion flower. The name resulted after early Spanish missionaries saw the passion flower during Lent and Easter. They named it in honor of the passion of Christ. The fruit is small and round, the size of a large egg, with red, yellow, or purple-brown skin, yellow flesh and many small black edible seeds. The pulp has an intense aromatic flavor, while the texture is jelly-like and watery. It is a good source of vitamins A and C, and potassium

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate: Emollient and co-emulsifier.

PEG-20 Stearate: A water-soluble emulsifier for triglycerides, waxes, and mineral oils.

PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate: A mild surfactant.

PEG-100 Stearate: Derived from stearic acid; it is an emulsifier for creams and lotions.

PEG-150 Distearate: Form stabilizer; hair and skin conditioner.

Pemphigus: An acute or chronic autoimmune skin disease found mainly in adults leading to regular or constant skin eruptions (blisters). The causes are not known.

Percutaneous Penetration: Penetration through the skin.

Perioral Dermatitis: Condition characterized by erythema, scaling and papules, and pustules around the mouth.

Periwinkle: An excellent astringent that may be used internally or externally. Used to treat excessive menstrual flow.

Petrolatum: Used in creams, it softens and soothes skin. Forms a film to prevent moisture loss.

Petrolatum: Cream additive derived from petroleum to help soften and soothe the skin. Forms a film to prevent moisture loss (Vaseline is petrolatum).

Petroleum: Mixture of hydrocarbons with similar properties as mineral oil. Industrially it is used as a grease component.

pH: Percentage of hydrogen. Used to measure acidity in cosmetic preparations The pH scale measures acidity and alkalinity, 7 being neutral. Anything above that is alkaline, anything below is acidic. A healthy skin is slightly acidic and many skincare products register 5.5. This means they won't strip the skin.

Phenyl Trimethicone: Emollient, moisturizer. Water resistant silicone, adds shine and flexibility.

Phospholipid: A lipid containing phosphorus. Used in dry skin preparations. A phospholipid is a complex fatty material found in all living cells that acts as an emollient, antioxidant, natural emulsifier and spreading agent.

Phosphoric Acid: An inorganic acid; a pH adjuster.

Photoaging: Premature breakdown of the skin's cells caused by damage from the sun's UVA and UVB rays.

Photosensitivity: A condition in which the sun causes, due to an application or ingestion of certain chemicals or foods, skin problems, such as rash, hyperpigmentation, swelling, and sunburn. Caused by reaction to certain drugs and chemicals as well as Vitamin A (retinol and/or alpha hydroxy acids).

Phytocosmetic: Cosmetics which are made from plants.

Pityrosporum Folliculitis: An acne-like rash composed of minute papules and pustules but no comedones (blackheads / whiteheads). It occurs most frequently on the forehead and sides of the face.

Polysorbate 20: A viscous, oily, water-soluble liquid used to stabilize perfumes in water-based preparations and act as a modifier and stabilizer of shampoos, liquid soaps and conditioners.

Polysorbate 80: Surface-active agent that provides smooth and complete spreading of the cleanser (used to emulsify oils).

Pore: Small opening of the sweat glands of the skin.

Proline: An amino acid that when combined with sodium PCA, has been demonstrated to provide excellent moisture absorption and retention properties to the skin.

Propioni-Bacterium Acnew: Anaerobic bacterium that thrives in the follicular canal of the pilosebaceous unit. Implicated in the pathogenesis of acne (Causes acne if not treated).

Propylene Glycol Stearate: As ester of propylene glycol and stearic acid. Used in creams, lotions, hair care products and makeup as co-emulsifier to produce a pearly opaque effect.

Propyl Paraben: Common cosmetic food grade preservative that is anti-fungal and anti-microbial. It is less water-soluble than methylparaben. See Methyl Paraben.

Propylene Glycol: A substance used to improve the spreadability of a product that can worsen acne. Combination of glycerin and water, an organic humectant similar to Butylene Glycol used in cosmetics. Clear, colorless liquids that are among the most common moisture-carrying vehicles in skin care. It delivers superb permeation through the skin and excellent humectant properties (softens and moisturizes the skin).

Psoriasis: A chronic disease of the skin consisting of itchy, dry, red patches, usually affecting the scalp or arms and legs. It may be treated with OTC or prescription medications.

Psoriasis: a genetic, chronic skin condition characterized by inflamed, red, raised symmetrical areas on the scalp, body and limbs that develop silvery scales.

Pustule (also called pimple) is a small raised bump on the skin filled with pus, which is usually composed of inflammatory cells.  Pustules can be seen in acne, rosacea, fungal infections.

Pyridoxine: (Vitamin B6) Plays an important role in the maintenance of healthy skin. Necessary for the synthesis & breakdown of amino acids, the building blocks of protein; aids in fat and carbohydrate metabolism; aids in the formation of antibodies; maintains the central nervous system; aids in the removal of excess fluid of premenstrual women; promotes healthy skin; reduces muscle spasms, leg cramps, hand numbness, nausea & stiffness of hands; helps maintain a proper balance of sodium & phosphorous in the body. Go to the Vitamins Dictionary and look up Vitamin B6.

Pyroxidine HCL: Vitamin B6 used as a texturizer.

Quaternary Ammonium Salts: (QUATS) Salt derivatives used in waterproof sunscreens because they impart cationic properties to compounds (reduce static electricity). QUATS chemically react with the skin, making lotions more water resistant.

Quaternium-15: Preservative used in cosmetics. Water soluble anti microbial agent that fights bacteria. A quaternary ammonium salt. See Quaternary Ammonium Salts.

Qnaternium-19: A preservative used in cosmetics than has anti-microbial benefits. A quaternary ammonium salt. See Quaternary Ammonium Salts.

Quercetin: Quercetin is a very highly concentrated form of Bioflavonoids derived from citrus fruit. See Bioflavonoids.

Quince Seed: A creamy, gummy plant-derived extract of the quince tree. Used in skin and hair care products as a treatment for dry, chapped hands or damaged hair.

Resin: Substance formed from the secretions of plants.

Resorcinol: In mild solutions, used as an antiseptic and as a soothing preparation for itchy skin.

Retin-A: Vitamin A derivative that acts as a topical anti-acne treatment. Additionally found to be beneficial in removing fine lines from facial skin. Caution: Can create photosensitivity. See Vitamin A Derivatives.

Retinoid: Natural or synthetic derivative of vitamin A with a wide range of therapeutic applications. See Vitamin A Derivatives.

Retinol: A vitamin A acid. The main ingredient in Retin-A and Renova. These products are used to treat fine wrinkles and acne.  Retinol is the most effective form of vitamin A without a prescription. Retinol has demonstrated to give similar benefits to retin-A but without the irritation (and at a slower pace). Retinol increases cellular turnover which evens out tone and texture and helps skin to function better. Retinol is better than other forms of vitamin A as the molecular structure is smaller.

Retinyl Palmitate  (AKA Vitamin A palmitate)Acts as a natural exfoliant.  It helps rid the skin of dead skin cells, helping the skin stay soft and plump.  It is also an antioxidant. Clinical studies of the benefits of  vitamin A palmitate indicate a significant change in skin composition, with increase in collagen, DNA, skin thickness, and elasticity.
 

Riboflavin: (Vitamin B2) Works with soluble tyrosine in suntan-enhancing products. Believed to accelerate tyrosine in tanning products. Produces a characteristic yellow color in lotions. Necessary for the maintenance of good vision, skin, nails & hair; alleviates eye fatigue; promotes general health.

Rosacea: A skin condition characterized by inflammed, red, oily, acne-prone areas.

Rose Hips: Extract of various species of wild roses, rich in vitamin C.

Rosemary: A general effect attributed to this herb is the promotion of wound healing. Has stimulating, rejuvenating and antiseptic properties.

Royal Gelly: Stimulates the renewal of healthier skin.  A substance that is secreted from the digestie system of worker bees that is fed to male bees and workers for a few days after they are born. Because the queen bee eats royal jelly throughout her life, royal jelly became associated with health and long life. In humans, however, studies have shown that royal jelly does not prevent aging, and is considered to be useless in humans.

Sage: A general effect attributed to this herb is the promotion of wound healing. Has stimulating, rejuvenating and antiseptic properties.

Salicylic Acid: An antiseptic that helps dissolve the top layers of the skin. Salicylic Acid:  Salicylic acid is a mild acid made from salicylate that works as a keratolytic (removes the tops layers of skin) agent and opens clogged pores seen in acne. Salicylic acid is both safe and efficacious for treatment of acne vulgaris, oily skin, textural changes, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in patients of most skin types.

SD Alcohol - An alcohol that has been chemically altered. Used for it's antiseptic and oil dissolving abilities. It is derived by fermentation of starch, sugar and other carbohydrates.

Seaweed: A plant with gelatin-like, moisture-retaining properties. A main ingredient in peel-off moisturizing masks, and used in face creams and lotions as a thickening agent. Also makes a great nutritional supplement because of the minerals and vitamins within the seaweed.

Sea Wrack: Seaweed cast ashore.

Sebaceous Duct: Duct through which the sebaceous gland empties sebum into the sebaceous follicle.

Sebaceous Gland: Gland in the dermis that produces sebum. Distributed over almost the entire body but concentrated on the face, upper back and chest.

Seborrhea: Increased sebum secretion. Implicated in the pathogenesis of acne.

Seborrheic Dermatitis: Common inflammatory condition of the skin that most often affects the scalp and face (areas above the neck), however, the armpits, and groin, buttocks and skin folds underneath the breasts can also be affected.

Seborrheic Keratosis: Benign skin lesion that is the most common skin tumor in the middle-aged and elderly. Usually found on the face, shoulders, chest and back. The lesions are flesh colored to tan or brown.

sea buckthorn extract: Sea buckthorn extract contains a remarkably wide variety of highly concentrated, active ingredients. In certain countries, it has been used for burn and wound healing. Sea buckthorn extract contains vitamin C, flavonoids (with anti­oxidant and anti-microbial properties), tocopherols (vitamin E), carotinoids (which break down to vitamin A), and high concentrations of lipids (and tallow) similar to the skin’s own natural lipids. It is anti-inflammatory, hydrating energizing contains anti-oxidants and other phytonutrients which help benefit the skin.

Selenium: An oral, plant-derived preparation used for its antifungal properties.

Self-tanner: A sun tanning product that contains DHA, which reacts with amino acids in the top layer of skin, causing it to temporarily darken (2-4 days).

Selenium: A major antioxidant nutrient; protects cell membranes and prevents free radical generation thereby reducing the risk of cancer and disease. Selenium also preserves tissue elasticity; slows down the aging and hardening of tissues through oxidation and helps in the treatment and prevention of dandruff.

Selenium Protein Complex: (Biomin S-P-C) Neutralizes free radicals on the skin and serves as a counter irritant.

Selenium Sulfide: An ingredient found in dandruff shampoos that inhibits mitotic activity and kills yeasts.

Sensitizer:   An ingredient that causes the skin to become sensitive to other ingredients or the environment; A sensitizer also refers to an ingredient that causes the skin to redden, swell, blister or itch.

Serum: The clear portion of any body fluid; the clear fluid moistening serous membranes. 2. blood serum; the clear liquid that separates from blood on clotting. 3. Immune serum; blood serum from an immunized animal used for passive immunization; an antiserum, antitoxin, or antivenin.

Shea Butter: An excellent emollient for use in creams, lotions. Alleviates dry skin.

Ultrapure Shea Butter's oily qualities improve skin softness and suppleness which make it ideal for dry or sensitive skin care, winter sports products, and for body lotions and hand care products. In addition Ultrapure Shea Butter can be formulated into capillary preparations to prevent and treat scalp dryness, and provide good lubrication for the hair, resulting in improved brilliance and manageability. Ultrapure Shea Butter is the effective natural additive for your skin and hair care products.

Shelf Life: The length of time a product can be expected to remain fresh.

Shephard’s Purse: A plant used for its diuretic, astringent and anti-inflammatory properties, for instance in water retention due to kidney problems, as a treatment of diarrhoea, wounds, nose bleeds, and other conditions. It also acts as a stimulator of the menstrual process.

Shiatsu: A Japanese method of massage that uses acupressure.

Siberian Ginseng: (Eleutherococcus Senticosis) Ginseng has been used to help increase our resistance and resilience to stress (adaptogen). An herb said to promote an overall improvement in one's health.

Silica: (silicon dioxide) Absorbent, anti-caking, abrasive.   A mineral included in face and body powders and paste-type masks. Silica is soothing and forms a moisture retaining film on the skin.

Silica Microbeads: They function as a heat resistant carrier molecule (a delivery system with unique carrying abilities) because of their ability to hold and absorb material. Silica Microbeads also impart a smoothness and resilient texture to the skin, as they possess a "ball-bearing," silky emolliency.

Silicone: A compound of silicon used in shine-enhancing hair products to seal the cuticle of hair and in many oil-free cosmetics.  

Silk Amino Acids: A natural water-soluble source of acid derived from liquid silk; these acids help moisture penetrate the skin (aid in absorption) and aid in skin healing. Used in skin and hair products, powder, and color makeup. See Amino acids.

Silk Protein: See Silk Amino Acids.

Skin Care: Skin maintenance activities utilizing products to keep the skin clean, moist and attractive, including cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and treatments to control acne, blemishes and postpone visible signs of aging.

Skin conditioning agent - an ingredient that usually acts by attracting and holding moisture in the skin.

Slippery Elm: Used for its emollient properties.

Slippery Elm Bark: Used for its soothing and softening properties.

Sodium bilulphite - antioxidant.

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Suffonate: Surfactant derived from coconut oil. Used in "soapless" shampoos.

Sodium Cetyl Sulfate: A water-soluble derivative of saturated fatty alcohol.

Sodium Chloride: A purified common table salt used for its natural cleansing, toning, refreshening, astringent, antiseptic and moisture absorption properties.

Sodium glycollate - salt of glycolic acid .

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate: An organic preservative derived from the amino acid glycine

Sodium laureth sulphate - sodium salt of lauryl sulphate, surfactant and a very gentle cleansing agent.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: An ingredient in 90% of commercially available shampoo and conditioner. Corrodes hair follicle and impedes hair growth. Is found in car wash soap, engine degreaser, toothpaste, cream, lotion, and garage floor cleaners. Penetrates your eyes, brain, liver and remains there for long-term. Degenerates cell membranes and can change the genetic information (mutagenic) in cells and damage the immune system. May cause blindness and lead to cataracts. Eyes can not heal properly. Retards the eye healing process. Studies also show that these additives react with the ingredients of food supplements or cosmetics, to form carcinogenic nitrates and dioxin. All of this may enter the circulatory system with each shampooing or each oral ingestion. The end result being that these harmful ingredients can be retained in the liver, heart, eyes, kidneys and muscles for several years after being used. It is further repor